When I became a Dermatologist my friends and relatives would always ask me two questions: “I use this product, is it good for me?” and “are there any products or ingredients I should not use?”. My response was always the same, “That depends on what ingredients are in that product and what your skin goals are.” In short, Ingredients Matter.
Hence the birth of ConsultSkin!
With that common answer, I wanted to develop a website that could educate people about the ingredients in skin care and direct them to the most scientifically sound studies studying the potential benefits of popular skin care ingredients.We want to help you make better skin care choices for you and your family!Cosmeceuticals are rapidly growing field within dermatology and the skin care industry. The industry was estimated to have generated approximately $8.2 billion in sales in 2012 with a projected annual growth of 7.4%
each year.The term “cosmeceuticals” is derived as a blend of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Although there is no strict definition for cosmeceuticals, they are typically considered cosmetic products with components that may have “drug-like” benefits. They are believed to contain either one or a mix of ingredients that enhance skin condition and appearance without making a specific claim on skin health or changing skin structure and/or function.Regulatory oversight for the cosmeceutical industry in the United States is largely provided by the FDA. The FDA does not have any legal authority in the approval of cosmetic products before they come on the market.
However, they are able to take legal action once a product is out on the market if the product is deemed to be misbranded or unsafe. Other agencies besides the FDA play a role in Cosmeceutical regulation as well. Specific
regulations for Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) ensure that products are not misbranded, by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) sets the standard for when a products can be called “organic”, U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) censors exaggerated or false product claims on TV and radio advertising.More and more patients rely on their dermatologist to recommend cosmetic and cosmeceutical products to improve the appearance of skin. With so many ingredients used in cosmeceuticals, the inability to market the scientifically proven ‘drug like’ effects of some of these ingredients and a lack of requirement to prove therapeutic benefit for cosmeceutical ingredients it can be very difficult to make sound recommendations. This section of Consult Skin provides a list of popular cosmeceuticals ingredients and highlights which ingredients have scientific data showing benefit to one, some, or all of the following skin benefits: antioxidant capacity, decreases inflammation, skin hydration, reduces pigment, reduces redness, smoothens skin texture, increases elasticity, fights wrinkles, improves barrier function, wound healing benefits, and/or anti-microbial properties.
Aloe Vera:
Forman, S. (2007) Miscellaneous Topical Agents. IN: S Wolverton. (2nd Edition) Comprehensive
Dermatologic Drug Therapy. (p. 775-784) Philadelphia PA: Elsevier.
Silva MA, Trevisan G, Hoffmeister C, Rossato MF, Boligon AA, Walker CI, Klafke JZ, Oliveira SM, Silva CR,
Athayde ML, Ferreira J. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of Aloe saponaria Haw in a model of
UVB-induced paw sunburn in rats. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014 Apr 5; 133: 47-54
Tarameshloo M1, Norouzian M, Zarein-Dolab S, Dadpay M, Gazor RA comparative study of the effects of
topical application of Aloe vera, thyroid hormone and silver sulfadiazine on skin wounds in Wistar
rats.Lab Anim Res. 2012 Mar; 28(1): 17-21
Somboonwong J1, Duansak N.The therapeutic efficacy and properties of topical Aloe vera in thermal
burns. J Med Assoc Thai. 2004 Oct; 87 Suppl 4: S69-78
Klein AD, Penneys NS. Aloe vera. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1988 Apr 18: 4(1): 714-20
Aluminum Chloride:
Forman, S. (2007) Miscellaneous Topical Agents. IN: S Wolverton. (2nd Edition) Comprehensive
Dermatologic Drug Therapy. (p. 775-784) Philadelphia PA: Elsevier.
Arbutin:
Seo DH, Jung JH, Ha SJ, Cho HK, Jung DH, Kim TJ, Baek NI, Yoo SH, Park CS. High-yield enzymatic
bioconversion of hydroquinone to α-arbutin, a powerful skin lightening agent, by amylosucrase. Appl
Microbiol Biotechnol. 2012 Jun; 94(5):1189-97
Lim YJ, Lee EH, Kang TH, Ha SK, Oh MS, Kim SM, Yoon TJ, Kang C, Park JH, Kim SY. Inhibitory effects of
arbutin on melanin biosynthesis of alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced hyperpigmentation
in cultured brownish guinea pig skin tissues. Arch Pharm Res. 2009 Mar; 32(3): 367-73.
Hamed SH, Sriwiriyanont P, deLong MA, Visscher MO, Wickett RR, Boissy RE. Comparative efficacy and
safety of deoxyarbutin, a new tyrosinase-inhibiting agent. J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Jul-Aug; 57(4): 291-308.
Alexis AF, Blackcloud P.Natural ingredients for darker skin types: growing options for
hyperpigmentation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Sep; 12(9 Suppl): s123-7.
Arnica:
Craciunescu O, Constantin D, Gaspar A, Toma L, Utoiu E, Moldovan L.Evaluation of antioxidant and
cytoprotective activities of Arnica montana L. and Artemisia absinthium L. ethanolic extracts. Chem Cent
J. 2012 Sep 9; 6(1): 97
Kouzi SA, Nuzum DS. Arnica for bruising and swelling.Am J Health Syst Pharm. 2007 Dec 1; 64(23): 2434-
43.
Baumann LS. Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct; 20(5): 330-42.
Azeleic Acid:
Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic acid. A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne
and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs. 1991 May; 41(5): 780-98.
Nazzaro-Porro M. Azelaic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1987 Dec; 17(6):1033-41.
Parvez S, Kang M, Chung HS, Cho C, Hong MC, Shin MK, Bae H. Survey and mechanism of skin
depigmenting and lightening agents. Phytother Res. 2006 Nov;20(11):921-34.
Coda AB, Hata T, Miller J, Audish D, Kotol P, Two A, Shafiq F, Yamasaki K, Harper JC, Del Rosso JQ, Gallo
RLCathelicidin, kallikrein 5, and serine protease activity is inhibited during treatment of rosacea with
azelaic acid 15% gel. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013 Oct; 69(4): 570-7.
Beta-Carotene
Wertz K, Hunziker PB, Seifert N, Riss G, Neeb M, Steiner G, Hunziker W, Goralczyk R.beta-Carotene
interferes with ultraviolet light A-induced gene expression by multiple pathways. J Invest Dermatol 2005
Feb; 124(2): 428-34
Wertz K, Seifert N, Hunziker PB, Riss G, Wyss A, Lankin C, Goralczyk R. Beta-carotene inhibits UVA-
induced matrix metalloprotease 1 and 10 expression in keratinocytes by a singlet oxygen-dependent
mechanism. Free Radic Biol Med. 2004 Sep 1; 37(5): 654-70
Bisabolol
Maurya AK, Singh M, Dubey V, Srivastava S, Luqman S, Bawankule DU. α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-
Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation. Curr Pharm Biotechnol. 2014
May 28. [Epub ahead of print]
Bromalein:
Baumann LS. Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct; 20(5): 330-42
Caffeine
Baumann LS. Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct; 20(5): 330-42
Mitani H, Ryu A, Suzuki T, Yamashita M, Arakane K, Koide C.Topical application of plant extracts
containing xanthine derivatives can prevent UV-induced wrinkle formation in hairless mice.
Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2007 Apr-Jun;23(2-3): 86-94.
Baumann L, Woolery-Lloyd H, Friedman A."Natural" ingredients in cosmetic dermatology.J Drugs
Dermatol. 2009 Jun;8(6 Suppl):s5-9.
Capsacin:
Huether MJ, Brodland DG. (2007) Local Anesthetics IN: S Wolverton. (2nd Edition) Comprehensive
Dermatologic Drug Therapy. (p. 825-845) Philadelphia PA: Elsevier
Ceramides:
Leonardi GR, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Application of a non-invasive method to study the
moisturizing effect of formulations containing vitamins A or E or ceramide on human skin. J Cosmet Sci.
2002 Sep-Oct; 53(5): 263-8.
Kircik L, Hougeir F, Bikowski J. Atopic dermatitis, and the role for a ceramide-dominant, physiologic lipid-
based barrier repair emulsion.J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Sep;12(9):1024-7. Review
Chamomile:
Baumann LS. Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct; 20(5): 330-42
Coffee Berry:
Baumann L, Woolery-Lloyd H, Friedman A."Natural" ingredients in cosmetic dermatology.J Drugs
Dermatol. 2009 Jun;8(6 Suppl):s5-9.
Farris P. Idebenone, green tea, and Coffeeberry extract: new and innovative antioxidants. Dermatol
Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):322-9.
Copper peptides:
Lupo MP, Cole AL.Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):343-9.
Gruchlik A, Jurzak M, Chodurek E, Dzierzewicz Z. Effect of Gly-Gly-His, Gly-His-Lys and their copper
complexes on TNF-alpha-dependent IL-6 secretion in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Acta Pol Pharm.
2012 Nov-Dec;69(6):1303-6
Buffoni F, Pino R, Dal Pozzo A. Effect of tripeptide-copper complexes on the process of skin wound
healing and on cultured fibroblasts. Arch Int Pharmacodyn Ther. 1995 Nov-Dec;330(3):345-60.
Pickart L. The human tri-peptide GHK and tissue remodeling. J Biomater Sci Polym Ed. 2008;19(8):969-
88.
Maquart FX, Pickart L, Laurent M, Gillery P, Monboisse JC, Borel JP.Stimulation of collagen synthesis in
fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+. FEBS Lett. 1988 Oct
10; 238(2): 343-6.
Pickart L, Vasquez-Soltero JM, Margolina A.The human tripeptide GHK-Cu in prevention of oxidative
stress and degenerative conditions of aging: implications for cognitive health. Oxid Med Cell Longev.
2012; 2012; 324-32.
CoQ10:
Zhang M, Dang L, Guo F, Wang X, Zhao W, Zhao R. Coenzyme Q(10) enhances dermal elastin expression,
inhibits IL-1α production and melanin synthesis in vitro.Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Jun;34(3):273-9.
Fuller B, Smith D, Howerton A, Kern D. Anti-inflammatory effects of CoQ10 and colorless carotenoids. J
Cosmet Dermatol. 2006 Mar;5(1):30-8.
Inui M, Ooe M, Fujii K, Matsunaka H, Yoshida M, Ichihashi M. Mechanisms of inhibitory effects of CoQ10
on UVB-induced wrinkle formation in vitro and in vivo. Biofactors. 2008;32 (1-4): 237-43.
Curcumin:
Kant V, Gopal A, Pathak NN, Kumar P, Tandan SK, Kumar D Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential
of curcumin accelerated the cutaneous wound healing in streptozotocin-induced diabetic rats. Int
Immunopharmacol. 2014 Jun; 20(2): 322-30.
Mukherjee PK1, Maity N, Nema NK, Sarkar BK. Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin
aging. Phytomedicine. 2011 Dec 15;19(1):64-73.
Baumann L. Botanical ingredients in cosmeceuticals. J Drugs Dermatol. 2007 Nov;6(11):1084-8.
DMAE:
Grossman R.The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology. Am J Clin Dermatol.
2005;6(1):39-47.
Morissette G, Germain L, Marceau F. The antiwrinkle effect of topical concentrated 2-
dimethylaminoethanol involves a vacuolar cytopathology. Br J Dermatol. 2007 Mar;156(3):433-9.
Uhoda I, Faska N, Robert C, Cauwenbergh G, Piérard GE. Split face study on the cutaneous tensile effect
of 2-dimethylaminoethanol (deanol) gel. Skin Res Technol. 2002 Aug;8(3):164-7.
Tadini KA, Campos PM.In vivo skin effects of a dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) based formulation.
Pharmazie. 2009 Dec;64(12):818-22
L-ergothioneine:
Dong KK, Damaghi N, Kibitel J, Canning MT, Smiles KA, Yarosh DB. A comparison of the relative
antioxidant potency of L-ergothioneine and idebenone. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Sep;6(3):183-8.
Obayashi K, Kurihara K, Okano Y, Masaki H, Yarosh DB. L-Ergothioneine scavenges superoxide and singlet
oxygen and suppresses TNF-alpha and MMP-1 expression in UV-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. J
Cosmet Sci. 2005 Jan-Feb;56(1):17-27.
Cheah IK, Halliwell B.Ergothioneine; antioxidant potential, physiological function and role in disease.
Biochim Biophys Acta. 2012 May;1822(5):784-93.
Laurenza I, Colognato R, Migliore L, Del Prato S, Benzi L.Modulation of palmitic acid-induced cell death
by ergothioneine: evidence of an anti-inflammatory action. Biofactors. 2008;33(4):237-47
Feverfew:
Baumann L, Woolery-Lloyd H, Friedman A."Natural" ingredients in cosmetic dermatology.J Drugs
Dermatol. 2009 Jun;8(6 Suppl):s5-9.
Rodriguez KJ, Wong HK, Oddos T, Southall M, Frei B, Kaur S.A purified Feverfew extract protects from
oxidative damage by inducing DNA repair in skin cells via a PI3-kinase-dependent Nrf2/ARE pathway. J
Dermatol Sci. 2013 Dec;72(3):304-10.
Bowe WP.Cosmetic benefits of natural ingredients: mushrooms, feverfew, tea, and wheat complex. J
Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Sep;12(9 Suppl):s133-6.
Sur R, Martin K, Liebel F, Lyte P, Shapiro S, Southall MAnti-inflammatory activity of parthenolide-
depleted Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium). Inflammopharmacology. 2009 Feb;17(1):42-9.
Glutathione:
Alexis AF, Blackcloud P.Natural ingredients for darker skin types: growing options for
hyperpigmentation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Sep; 12(9 Suppl): s123-7
Glycolic acid:
Thomas JR1, Dixon TK, Bhattacharyya TK.Effects of topicals on the aging skin process. Facial Plast Surg
Clin North Am. 2013 Feb;21(1):55-60
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Linneva (licorice extract)
Baumann L, Woolery-Lloyd H, Friedman A."Natural" ingredients in cosmetic dermatology.J Drugs
Dermatol. 2009 Jun;8(6 Suppl):s5-9
Morteza-Semnani K, Saeedi M, Shahnavaz B. Comparison of antioxidant activity of extract from roots of
licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) to commercial antioxidants in 2% hydroquinone cream. J Cosmet Sci. 2003
Nov-Dec;54(6):551-8.
Visavadiya NP1, Soni B, Dalwadi N. Evaluation of antioxidant and anti-atherogenic properties of
Glycyrrhiza glabra root using in vitro models. Int J Food Sci Nutr 2009; 60 Suppl 2: 135-49.
Parvez S, Kang M, Chung HS, Cho C, Hong MC, Shin MK, Bae H. Survey and mechanism
of skin depigmenting and lightening agents. Phytother Res. 2006 Nov;20(11):921-34.
Green Tea:
Baumann L, Woolery-Lloyd H, Friedman A."Natural" ingredients in cosmetic dermatology.J Drugs
Dermatol. 2009 Jun;8(6 Suppl):s5-9
Katiyar SK. Skin photoprotection by green tea: antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects. Curr Drug
Targets Immune Endocr Metabol Disord. 2003 Sep;3(3):234-42.
Pazyar N, Feily A, Kazerouni A.Green tea in dermatology. Skinmed. 2012 Nov-Dec;10(6):352-5.
Ahmed S, Wang N, Lalonde M, Goldberg VM, Haqqi TMGreen tea polyphenol epigallocatechin-3-gallate
(EGCG) differentially inhibits interleukin-1 beta-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -
13 in human chondrocytes. J Pharmacol Exp Ther 2004 Feb; 308(2): 767-73.
Gianeti MD, Mercurio DG, Campos PMThe use of green tea extract in cosmetic formulations: not only an
antioxidant active ingredient. Dermatol Ther. 2013 May-Jun;26(3):267-71.
Hu J, Zhou D, Chen Y.Preparation and antioxidant activity of green tea extract enriched in
epigallocatechin (EGC) and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). J Agric Food Chem. 2009 Feb 25;57(4):1349-
53.
Domingo DS, Camouse MM, Hsia AH, Matsui M, Maes D, Ward NL, Cooper KD, Baron ED. Anti-
angiogenic effects of epigallocatechin-3-gallate in human skin. Int J Clin Exp Pathol. 2010 Aug 5;3(7):705-
9.
Hyaluronic Acid:
McQuestion M.Evidence-based skin care management in radiation therapy. Semin Oncol Nurs. 2006
Aug;22(3):163-73.
Jegasothy SM, Zabolotniaia V, Bielfeldt S.Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans. J
Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014 Mar;7(3):27-9.
Schlesinger TE, Powell CR. Efficacy and tolerability of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid sodium salt
0.2% cream in rosacea. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Jun 1;12(6):664-7.
Hydroquinone:
Bang SH, Han SJ, Kim DH. Hydrolysis of arbutin to hydroquinone by human skin bacteria and its effect on
antioxidant activity. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008 Sep;7(3):189-93.
Smiles KA, Dong KK, Canning MT, Grimson R, Walfield AM, Yarosh DB. A hydroquinone formulation with
increased stability and decreased potential for irritation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Jun;6(2):83-8.
Parvez S, Kang M, Chung HS, Cho C, Hong MC, Shin MK, Bae H. Survey and mechanism
of skin depigmenting and lightening agents. Phytother Res. 2006 Nov;20(11):921-34.
Badreshia-Bansal S, Draelos ZD.Insight into skin lightening cosmeceuticals for women of color. J Drugs
Dermatol. 2007 Jan;6(1):32-9
More ingredients coming soon...